Interview with Jack Stein
A Taste of Cornwall
Celebrity chef Jack Stein shares his recipe for the perfect Cornish getaway
Having climbed the rungs of the family business, travelling the world along the way, the name Jack Stein now resonates far beyond the boundaries of his beloved home county of Cornwall. In his role as Chef Director, Jack oversees all the restaurant menus within the Rick Stein Group, a seafood empire established by his parents, Rick and Jill, which has its roots in a little bistro on Padstow Harbour. Following his father’s footsteps into the culinary limelight, with TV appearances and a cookbook to his name, Jack is still very much a local lad at heart with a passion for all things Kernow. Let’s hear from the man himself…
You’ve travelled the world from a young age, does Cornwall still hold a place in your heart and why?
Yes absolutely, often the best thing about travelling is coming home. Cornwall has changed so much over the years but it will always have a place in my heart. What I love most is being able to work in our restaurants, and then go to the beach and have a surf all in the same day.
If you could spend your perfect day out in Cornwall, what would you do?
Go for an early surf, then a good pub for lunch such as the Gurnards Head in Zennor, and then maybe an afternoon walk up Rough Tor with my girlfriend and the kids.
In terms of food and drink, what would you recommend to anyone wanting to experience a true taste of Cornwall? Do you have a favourite Cornish dish?
Cornish shellfish is amongst the best in the world, I’d particularly recommend the lobster, oysters and crab which you’ll be able to find in all the good fish shops and markets. As far as a favourite dish goes, it’s difficult to choose as I love so much of Cornwall’s food but I’d have to say steamed lobster, mayonnaise and a little fresh salad. So simple, yet delicious.
How has the food scene in Cornwall changed over the years?
Massively. As well as my father Rick Stein, other top chefs such as Nathan Outlaw, Paul Ainsworth and many more have set up here over the past decade. Food tourism has exploded which is brilliant for the region, and everyone can experience it by coming and staying here in a self-catering cottage, hotel or whatever. There is good food everywhere now, not just in the top restaurants but in local crab shacks on the beach, food trucks, cafes and farmer’s markets and it’s all so easily accessible. In the past chefs left the area for the big cities, but now it’s the other way round, big name chefs are choosing to set up restaurants in Cornwall bringing high end dining to the region for local people and holidaymakers to enjoy.
Are there any local ingredients that you just can’t do without in your cooking?
Salt. In particular Cornish flaky sea salt.
How important is it for you to be championing local produce and how much do ethics and sustainability affect your gastronomic choices?
They are a huge part of everything that we do and our restaurants just wouldn’t be here without the fantastic local suppliers, fishermen, farms and butchers. We are really just putting their amazing products together on a plate, hopefully with a bit of skill! We buy all our ingredients as locally as we possibly can to each of our restaurants and want to be part of the bigger picture supporting local businesses. It’s more than just buying our meat from a local farm, it’s about giving back to the local economy and being part of the beautiful region where we all live. We obviously buy a lot of fish and have been massively affected by quotas, but we still buy as much as we possibly can from local fishermen close to home, even if it’s just a fisherman with one boat and a few fish for sale.
What excites you most about your role as chef director?
Watching young local chefs come up through the restaurants and go on to run the kitchen. The current head chef at The Seafood Restaurant, Pete Murt, did just that. He started as a kitchen porter and went on to be commis chef and then head chef. His family also catch most of our lobsters for us which is handy!
Where do you find your culinary inspiration?
From Dad. I really like his style which is all about simplicity and letting the ingredients and flavours speak for themselves. His ability to know when to hold back only comes from years of experience of running a restaurant.
Have you got any top tips for our Cornish guests looking to create a simple seafood supper at their holiday cottage?
Go and see if you can buy direct from a fishing boat, post Covid they are doing this more and more and it’s now perfectly acceptable to go down to the harbour with some cash and buy a lobster or two fresh from the boat.
As far as cooking goes, keep it simple. Put lots of salt in the water and boil your crab or lobster, then eat it in the sunshine with some salad. Delicious!
What would be your top 3 recommendations on places to go in Cornwall for our guests?
Number one would have to be a day out in Padstow for a meal in a good restaurant. As well as Rick Stein, there’s plenty to choose from such as Paul Ainsworth or the new Pig at Harlyn Bay. Then I really rate the Lost Gardens of Heligan which are a great family day out. And number three would probably be the Lizard, I just love the beaches and walking there, it’s less rugged than North Cornwall and completely beautiful.
The Stein family have 7 restaurants in Cornwall, plus four foodie shops. They also have 4 restaurants outside of Cornwall in Winchester, Marlborough, Sandbanks and Barnes.